zero thousand dot net ~ breaking the laws of robotics since 2006</t itle></head> <body bgcolor=#000000 link="#FFFFFF" vlink="#ffffff"> <font color=#fffffff> <center> <font face="georgia, helvetica, sans serif" color=#ffffff size=+1> How to make your own latex prosthetics- cheap & easy <br> <font face="georgia, helvetica, sans serif" color=#ffffff size=-1> by Clamoring <br> <br> <table><tr><td width=600> <font face="georgia, helvetica, sans serif" color=#ffffff size=-1> Last minute zombie party, and you've got nothing to wear? Friends finally got off their butt and decided to make that slasher film they've always been talking about? Just want to impress the girls? Your're going to need some prosthetic gashes, slashes, and scars, so read on! <br> </td></tr> </table> <br><br> <table><tr><td> <img src="clamoring/IMG_1.gif"> <br> </td><td width=300 valign=top align=center> <center> <font face="georgia, helvetica, sans serif" color=#ffffff size=-1> Materials<br><br> <ul><li>modeling clay <li>clay tools <li>plaster of paris <li>liquid latex <li>make-up</ul><br><br> Cost: less than $10.00 <br><br> Time: about 2 hours (most of that is drying time) <br><br> </td></tr></table> </td></tr></table> </td></tr> </table> <br><br> <table><tr><td width=200> <font face="georgia, helvetica, sans serif" color=#ffffff size=-1> Step one - Gather supplies<br><br> Plaster of paris, Liquid Latex, and the modeling clay are found in art or theater supply stores. Tools obviously can be garnished from whatever you have lying around the house (butter knife, tulle, plastic wrap, rubber stamps, etc. all make very nice textures and imprints.) You can substitute the clay for paper mache mix which is slightly cheaper than modelling clay. Either way, don't get attached to your positive as it will most likely be destroyed when your mold is released. </td><td> <img src="clamoring/scars1.JPG"> </td></tr> <tr><td> <font face="georgia, helvetica, sans serif" color=#ffffff size=-1> Step two - Create your positive <br><br> Form the clay using your hands and whatever tools you have scavenged into the scar design of your choice in the bottom of a container. You'll nee 1"-2" clearance from your clay scar to the top of container. The plaster of paris can take some pretty detailed work so don't be shy. Here, I'm using medical plaster fabric to create a skin-like texture. You can use a knife to create a "gash". The sharper the gash the more "clean cut" your wound will look. If you're going for something along the lines of "farm equipment accident" you'll want a number of clean cuts. On the other hand, "motorcycle accident" will be softer and more mangled. I'd try using the rounded edge of a spoon and maybe a steel sponge for that. Spray a light coat of cooking spray (like Pam) on your positive. this is to help the plaster of paris not stick. </td><td> <img src="clamoring/scars2.JPG"> </td></tr> <tr><td width=600> <font face="georgia, helvetica, sans serif" color=#ffffff size=-1> Step three - Plaster of paris<br><br> Mix plaster according to directions on the carton. Usually a 2:1 mix:water ratio. For best results add wet to dry and work out the lumps. Pour into the container housing your positive to about 1"-2" deep and tap the side to float any bubbles. Wait about 30 minutes. Once hard, turn upside down and *gently* tap the bottom until your mold releases. You now have a negative of your scar. </td><td> <img src="clamoring/scars3.JPG"> </td></tr> <tr><td valign=top> <font face="georgia, helvetica, sans serif" color=#ffffff size=-1> Step four - Liquid latex<br><br> You do not need to use cooking spray on your plaster negative before applying the liquid latex. Take care since your plaster negative will be very brittle and can shatter easily. Slowly drizzle the liquid latex over your negative. You will likely have to use your finger to ensure the latex reaches into all of the cracks. I have found the best method for a good positive is to apply the latex in layers. Let the first thin layer dry, then pour a little more on and let that dry. It will usually take 2-3 coats to get a nice solid piece. You should keep the edges as thin as possible for the most realistic application and the whole piece should be flat on the back. </td><td> </td></tr> <tr><td valign=top> <font face="georgia, helvetica, sans serif" color=#ffffff size=-1> <br><br> Step five - Application <br><br> Apply sprit gum to both the prosthetic and the area of the body you will be attaching the scar to. Stay away from natural creases such as corners of eye or elbows. Be sure to clean the skin with rubbing alcohol first. Use make up to create bruising/bleeding. I recommend Ben Nye's "thick blood" and "bruise wheel" if you don't mind investing. If you do, Wet & Wild (found in most drugstores) has some fantastic dirt-cheap eyeshadow. Look for blues, yellows, and greens. You can always use the old standby for blood: Karo syrup & red food dye. In the picture at the top I used chocolate pudding to give the skin a "dirty" look. </td><td> <img src="clamoring/scars4.JPG"> </td></tr> </table> <br><br><br> <center><a href="doit.html"><img src="images/doitbutton.jpg" border=0></a></center> <br><br> This process is licensed <a rel="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/">Creative Commons NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.5 License</a>.<br><a rel="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/"><img alt="Creative Commons License" border="0" src="http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.png"/></a> <br><br><br> <a href="http://www.zerothousand.net" target=